26th Here Comes The Sun
At about 11am midway through our morning surf the rain finally stopped! Possible one of the longest runs of constant drizzly rain I have ever experienced in France, it had more of a North Wales feel to the weather. As soon as the rain stopped a humid warmth was quickly felt giving a slightly tropical feel to the atmosphere.
Surf 6
After yesterdays non event, I was already getting pretty desperate to get back in the water. The swell was quite big and still disorganised although the gentle on shores were having little effect, our best option appeared to be a very crowded Sports 3/4ft of punchy steep waves were quite fun especially in the take off, but positioning and manoeuvring amongst the crowd took away most of the stoke factor, resulting in my least favourite surf of the trip.
Surf 7
Wo there!!! Surfed a very heavy mid to low tide Bunkers with lots of people out, a solid 5ft and fully top to bottom on the take off. Got properly nailed on many occasions had a few full on adrenalin drops and the occasional ride which allowed a turn! It was hard work and you had to be on your toes. The crowd made things even more intense. The on shore winds were making things a little confused as well. If this wave was any bigger I think I would be advised not to go out not really a ‘fun’ surf but definitely a buzz!
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