14th December
68/33
Better born lucky than rich, and I'm a long way from rich, maybe if I did a bit more work and less surf it may help my financial situation. Anyway apart from being healthy/married/kids/house bla bla bla yeah very lucky.. I have lovely friends who phone me of a morning giving me very early on the spot surf reports. Happy days and they keep coming. Each evening I go to bed thinking I'm too tired to surf tomorrow my limbs ache, I can't think straight and my wife keeps saying I'm acting weird... I'm not acting weird I'm just too knackered to answer back I have 'winter surf brain' the cold draws more energy and my brain cells aren't getting fuelled. Even writing this is like some kind of mission.
So when the morning call came and Gary was talking longboards, and mellow small waves I thought great a rest day, 2 hours later "Mate it's classic" came down the phone and "I can't remember having a surf that good at the pier".... oh 'ass wipes' I thought, I have to go!
Actually I did have a lot of fun mostly surfing the west side of the pier with Mason, Matt and Greg. Good fun punchy lefts with inside wally sucky barrels were had before the wind got up. Going over to the east side I saw Kim get some stonking sucky lefts towards the pier, although it was mentioned that it possibly wasn't 'the best pier ever', I wasn't the only person to hear from Gary and as Guy quipped 'It doesn't count on a long board' hehehe
15th December
69/34
Another day another surf, rotating wetsuits at least has meant always a dry one to put on although my Xcel is a let down after the Snuggly Snug. I had 2 calls this morning, both telling me the same thing, 'Pier going off and biggest ever!!' I had my 5 year old sons school play in the morning and I didn't really fancy a crowded close out pier so I text Gav, 'what you doing today? I think Magic D on, I'm free from 12'. Gav who likes to talk about pre-webcam/dickheads on Blogs, surf days, and surfing K alone 25 years ago is always up for bit of an adventure and although not local will always make the effort to get his ass down here from Surrey when it looks good.
Gav picked me up at 12pm and we were in the water alone at Magic D for 1pm shortly followed by Deane, Woody and a couple of other guys. The waves were inconsistent, sometimes great and then long waits between sets, but super clean, head high when they came and always good when there is only a friendly few out.
It's looking on again tomorrow.. The rash on my neck is horrendous, I can't I keep this up... ok I might :-)
Boards Boards Boards at super cheap prices and they really are tasty... If you want the list email me... benmottram1@yahoo.co.uk
No comments:
Post a Comment