Nice mellow clean day at the pier

Surf 39/74 19th January 


I don't think it's been the best January for surf I've ever known, but there was a surprisingly clean mellow 2ft wave today at the pier and with crowds minimal, happy days were had by all who surfed it. Maybe the winterness is actually starting to put people off, the last week has felt pretty cold with that easterly wind, but today felt positively balmy! In my usual attire of full hood and mittens I actually felt hot and if anything I think it may have been slowing me down. Mason paddled out with no hood or gloves and said he felt fine and as he seemed to be catching impossibly fat waves with his skinny little board I felt more and more sluggish and old and found myself drooling over Dan's minimal as he took yet another long mellow right hander. The rights were long and mellow and the lefts were short but a bit more punchy, although not quite doing that sucky thing sadly. How long the banks will stay like this is anyone's guess but they are definitely producing a bit more consistency in the shape of the wave than is the norm.

I am definitely needing a bit more size and power and the thought of a nice long wall seems like a distant memory or hopeful dream, but I always say February is the best month down here, lets hope this Feb comes up with the goods.