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February is the best month to be a south coast surfer. In years gone by there have been some stunning swells hitting our shores this time of year, with the best mostly in February. I would say it has mostly been a disappointing month so far although a few trips have been made to K they are often a little frustrating with long waits between sets. I have had to let some swells go by un-ridden due to working (I know I 'll try to stop), but at last we have had a proper quality swell hit, and with a nice swell building and peaking on the weekend of the 25th happy days were here again.
Surf 44 79 February 24th
I'd been recovering from a really nasty illness where puke and poo decided to excrete from my stomach at almost random moments and sometimes together, so the thought of surfing cold winter mush was a long way from my mind but as the weekend of the 25th got closer, enthusiastic texts started to bleep through, I couldn't put it off much longer. I had to surf!
Is it only me who has a weird sense of guilt when I don't surf if there is surf? It doesn't on the surface make any rational sense and I'm sure at least half my surfs were probably not worth the effort, the cost, the fitness benefits or even the 'stoke factor'. But often if there is even the slightest hint of a swell and I decide not to surf it, I have this weird sense of guilt like I'm letting myself (and the the surf god) down.
Turning up at K on Friday the waves were looking quite chunky with a large amount of water movement and looking quite rippy. The bay was full of waves, Kim was out there doing his bit, probably a good choice. I chose the ledges with 2 others and only about an hour passed before frustration and tiredness through lack of food and fitness kicked in and I gave up. I had a few good-ish waves, some big drops but the shape was lacking and positioning was hard.
I had taken my Lynch 6'6 out but it felt stiff and the and unresponsive, the size of the waves was deceptive as the lack of shape and power would have suited one of my quads.
I left feeling guilty for not trying harder.
Surf 45 80 February 25th K day of the year
oh oh oh... What can I say? When I think of K this is what I remember, everywhere was on, from the secrets, to the Bay hundreds of rubber clad bodies on every conceivable surfable craft spread out along the Jurassic coast surfing there favourite spots. I surfed my favourite spot and the less said about that the better! Clean head high beautifully shaped waves were had by all, if you missed this session I hope you had a good reason. I surfed until I couldn't surf any more, with virtually no waiting around between waves and sets. we had a few good K days in Autumn and a couple of weeks ago we had some nice but freezing waves. But I think today was the best that Autumn and Winter has had to offer us this year.
My one mistake was surfing my 6'1 quad, today the waves today felt a bit too powerful for this wide shortboard and I felt like I was hanging on a lot of the time and a bit out of control. Catching waves wasn't a problem as the shape was so good and predictable, the size of the waves although over head at times was perfectly manageable. I just think My lynch would have given me a bit more confidence to carve the big wally faces and push a bit harder off the lips.
I left thinking I'm done for a week now, but spending Sunday down at the beach hut with the kids I soon found myself watching the small ground swell rolling through and wanting to get right out there again. The desire never subsides for long.
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