12th September
Surf 40/5
Got into some lovely 3/4ft chunky clean waves at the pier on my 5'10 fish although it all started off a bit embarrassing sitting furthest out with Dan and Guy the first wave I took shocked me a little with its speed and power and my slippy fish felt hmm well a little too slippy! Getting to my feet and looking up only to see a wall of very afraid looking surfers I panicked and slipped off, my board then nearly took a few people out, I apologised and paddled back. A few minutes later an even bigger wave started to taper and I thought I was perfect for it, as I went, the thing broke on my back and I went careering through a mass of bodies and ended up somewhere near the beach, this was now officially embarrassing. Sheepishly paddling back out trying to make as little eye contact as possible when I got back Dan was laughing at me "bit of white water rafting today is it?" he said. Guy suggested that Bournemouth was one of the few places where after taking a wave out back you could be a serial killer by the time you got to the beach and "are you related to Fred West?" and "you are not going to do that again are you?"
I said "I'll try not to"
Thankfully I did manage to get to my feet on a few occasions but I struggled to redeem myself, the crowds were still thick and dangerous and it wasn't the best surf I have ever had!
13th September
Surf 41/6
I surfed a semi secret spot today, well I say semi as I am sure a lot of people know where it is but probably don't know the best times/tides and conditions to go. I didn't but I got taken and told. I am not even going to say who took me! For fear of pissing too many people off! And giving away clues
Lets just say I had fun, the wind was a bit too strong but it was a quality wave with power and punch and I felt at home (after 5 weeks in France) On it's day this wave must be as good as anywhere.
Lucky I appear to be able to surf again! Unlike yesterday!
Looking forward to tomorrow!
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