18th September
45/10
I got to the beach at about about 12pm with my kids, brother in-law his wife and Char. The rain was unpleasant but I kept telling everyone that any minute now the rain would stop, it took about an hour but we all had fun eating our lunch in the beach hut wile waiting for the sun to come out. The amazing and surprising thing was the super clean 2ft waves which would come in sets of 3 or 4 every 5 minutes. I wasn't expecting to see any swell let alone what looked like super clean ground swell, I text Gary to see if he had heard if K might be on, he said the buoys were only reading 5sec wave period so it looked like the waves may have been some kind of cleaned up wind swell, making K a very risky call.
So about an hour later Char's brother and wife drove home, I dropped kids and wife home, I borrowed a spongy longboard from Gary and had an amazing amount of fun surfing with Gary my brother Matt and the Brazilian dude, don't know his name but he surfs the green quad fish and he is in some of those pics from the 6th of September shown on this blog.
Sun out, warm, super clean and great shapely waves. I Came away feeling extremely stoked!
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