9th November
Surf 57/22
I had to go into town and buy myself some smart shows for my grandfathers funeral tomorrow, checked the pier after said purchase and was greeted with a sloppy messy 2ft of uninspiring waves. I felt surprisingly enthusiastic to surf it and ended up having great fun on my 5'10 fish, had some fun waves I even got a couple of nice turns in! A few other friendly surfers were out, I didn't recognise them, but the stoke was shared and we all surfed until it was impossible to see the waves any more.
My fish felt buoyant after my shortboard and catching waves was easy although the drops were slippy and felt a little sketchy, speed came easy and I managed a couple of full cutbacks in sloppy slow messy waves. I think it's good to change boards and then come back to old favourites, it felt fresh and new again. I also think the little gym workout I had with Gary on Monday paid some dividends.
Slightly stressed for tomorrow, I and the 5 other grandsons have been asked to carry the coffin, I'm having nightmares of dropping or laughing as walking into the crematorium. I'm sure it will be ok...........
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