3rd November
Surf 55/20
Surfed a very disorganised onshore pier, only 3 others out but that was kinda understandable under the circumstances. I had a couple of good waves and lots of not so good ones. It was very hard work and I pretty much paddled for the whole session with very few breaks. Getting on a wave was very hard and unpredictable, I found myself wiping out in the take off on many occasions. The one bit of joy I can take from the session is I am starting to love that 6'2 fluid juice shortboard, it feels great to surf and I feel like I have loads of control, if something goes wrong recovery is possible. I did a couple cutbacks which felt good, I could really dig the rail in and the board would accelerate out of the turn and I didn't lose my balance where I normally would on a fish. The only downer about the board is it takes a lot more effort and paddle power to get it on a wave, I have been used to much higher volume boards and with this board the later take-offs need to be timed well, otherwise I come a cropper!
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