My friend Ben, (Language Teacher, I often met in France at VVF. see August blog entries) is a stickler for perfect spelling and good grammar so he often gives me grief about mine... Ben is currently in Cornwall for the week and will often like to update me with his surfs, this afternoon he sent me a funny email which I thought I would share...------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Blog
Dei 1 - Sunday
Met Gavlaaa at 7am to check south fistral. Too small so headed for Mawgan Porth, low tide off the rocks. Great 2 hour session 2 to 3 ft and only 5 out, also saw a seal really close. Got message from Andy who was grovelling in 2 foot slop at Croyde!
Dei too - Mundei
Bit bigger but headed for Mawgan again. Wave was heavy, closing out a bit and rippy. Got some solid drops, sketchy on fish! 4 ft, perhaps more on sets. Gavlaa fed up with heavy paddle out. Saw seal matey boy again, I think she fancies me! 2 hrs again and got 2 or 3 very fast and long hollow rides. Weather crap but stoke is good! Hope mie spelin is ok.
Luv
Ben
Dei thri - Choosedei
Gavin and I are both feeling the two hour session we did in Mawgan Porth yesterday, which was a 2 hour paddle against the current session. So we welcomed a 3 to 4ft South Fistral early. Jumped off the rocks so a dry haired paddle out was on the menu. After his first wave Gavin maid the decision to change his board!! He swapped the egg for a fish, yes we were surfing and not doing a Rick Stein cookery course,
It was a good decision as he later court a corker of a right all the way to the rocks. In the end we staid in four too and a half hours! Sun came out too, scorchio!
So far, been here. 3 days and had 3 good sessions! Still waiting for a super session but it's coming JC, it's coming...!
Cowabunga!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I think he's Mocking me...
Monday 24 October 2011
Sunday 23 October 2011
BIG WEDNESDAY ! !
Wednesday 19th 2011
After being in the deepest, darkest, barrel for 9 months, Cody Beau Mottram yelped for joy as he clawed onto life seconds after his first breath! The after spray from the barrel was intense, but Cody managed to stay on his feet for a perfect 10. Cody may take some time to recover and when he's next on a wave, (about 5 years time) the biggest barrel of his life will be a forgotten moment, although for all who witnessed (well mainly his Mum), it will live in memories forever.
------------------------------
Ok so that was a bit contrived, but hey what's a bit of artistic licence between friends....
And the long version of what actually happened for anyone who might care...
My Mum was due to arrive Monday night and the plan was that she would look after the kids, take them to school and generally help out on Wednesday (planned Caesarean birthday). Both Charlotte and I have no family locally and our parents live 200 miles away, so a 'known' birth date had massive advantages for us. But towards the end of last week and into the weekend my Grandfather (Mums dad) suddenly fell gravely ill and was seriously looking like dying just in time for my new babies birth. My Mum was obviously in a bit of a state and was needing to be with her Mum, siblings and her Dad.
Charlotte and I thought fine, we can adapt, the new plan will be drop Char at hospital at around 7am, I get back and get the kids to school and then rush back to the hospital hopefully in time for the delivery of Cody. Both our other children were delivered by C-section around 9am but depending on where on where Char fell on the list it could be as late as midday so we felt we had plenty of time.
Monday night we heard the news that my Grandfatherhad was in a stable state and although in ITU the doctors said nothing was likely to change for a while so my mum said she would come down Tuesday Night and the original plan could go ahead.
I woke up Tuesday Morning with two golf ball sized lumps sticking out of my neck... apart from my obvious discomfort and feeling slightly scared about my predicament the reaction from Charlotte was understandably quite extreme, by 8.50am I was sitting in our doctors surgery waiting to be examined.
After answering a list of questions, most of which I answered "no" and explaining my predicament (my wife giving birth tomorrow) the doctor gave a bit of a smile and said "I hope you weren't planning on being in the theatre tomorrow" and "I'm not sure what's wrong with you, maybe Glandular Fever, you need a blood test". So two pieces of great news to tell my wife, I wont be at the birth of our 3rd child and I might be ill for the next few weeks. She'd be cool!
So my Mum arrived Tuesday night, I dropped Char at the hospital Wednesday morning and we showed/explained to the Nurses and Doctors my illness and they gave Char a private room (bonus!), away from the other new Babies and Mums and the medical staff suggested I didn't get too close to the baby when it came or Charlotte who was about to get cut open! I then rushed home took my kids to school, gave my mum the sat-nav and the keys to my other car and rushed back to the hospital. Char was still waiting and had been put to 3rd on the list. We had about an hour to wait and time seemed to start warping into slow motion and the longest hour of our lives slowly ticked by.... Eventually a midwife turned up and said "Do you want to walk to Theatre or ride on the bed?" Charlotte opted to walk and I sort of waved good bye and said I'll be back in a couple of hours to meet our new baby. Very very weird experience not even kissing or hugging my wife goodbye before she had one of the biggest and scariest experiences of her life.
I had 2 hours to kill and sitting in Charlotte's room may have driven me insane so I went to meet my mum in Bournemouth town centre for some coffee. I drove from Poole Hospital quite erratically, my mind was best described as confused. As I walked through Bournemouth town centre I had the strangest sense that I was in the wrong place, it felt like a weird dream where you can't get to a place you want or you have missed something for being in the wrong place. My trippy mind was probably not helped by my fever but it was one of the strangest sensations I've ever had.
I returned to the Hospital after about 2 hours and Charlotte wasn't back from recovery. I sat... well when I say sat I was pretty twitchy, my adrenalin was pumping overdrive and I started to worry... 10 minutes passed and eventually Charlotte and Cody arrived........... they both looked happy, Charlotte looked a bit yellow and felt very sick but she was smiling. I felt my tension and stress slowly drain away.
I brought Imogen and Billy to come and meet their brother at about 6pm and all seemed good in the world. Charlotte only stayed the 1 night in hospital and by Thursday afternoon I had a very full home. Happy days.
So now I need to get better because I need a surf!
After being in the deepest, darkest, barrel for 9 months, Cody Beau Mottram yelped for joy as he clawed onto life seconds after his first breath! The after spray from the barrel was intense, but Cody managed to stay on his feet for a perfect 10. Cody may take some time to recover and when he's next on a wave, (about 5 years time) the biggest barrel of his life will be a forgotten moment, although for all who witnessed (well mainly his Mum), it will live in memories forever.
------------------------------
Ok so that was a bit contrived, but hey what's a bit of artistic licence between friends....
And the long version of what actually happened for anyone who might care...
My Mum was due to arrive Monday night and the plan was that she would look after the kids, take them to school and generally help out on Wednesday (planned Caesarean birthday). Both Charlotte and I have no family locally and our parents live 200 miles away, so a 'known' birth date had massive advantages for us. But towards the end of last week and into the weekend my Grandfather (Mums dad) suddenly fell gravely ill and was seriously looking like dying just in time for my new babies birth. My Mum was obviously in a bit of a state and was needing to be with her Mum, siblings and her Dad.
Charlotte and I thought fine, we can adapt, the new plan will be drop Char at hospital at around 7am, I get back and get the kids to school and then rush back to the hospital hopefully in time for the delivery of Cody. Both our other children were delivered by C-section around 9am but depending on where on where Char fell on the list it could be as late as midday so we felt we had plenty of time.
Monday night we heard the news that my Grandfatherhad was in a stable state and although in ITU the doctors said nothing was likely to change for a while so my mum said she would come down Tuesday Night and the original plan could go ahead.
I woke up Tuesday Morning with two golf ball sized lumps sticking out of my neck... apart from my obvious discomfort and feeling slightly scared about my predicament the reaction from Charlotte was understandably quite extreme, by 8.50am I was sitting in our doctors surgery waiting to be examined.
After answering a list of questions, most of which I answered "no" and explaining my predicament (my wife giving birth tomorrow) the doctor gave a bit of a smile and said "I hope you weren't planning on being in the theatre tomorrow" and "I'm not sure what's wrong with you, maybe Glandular Fever, you need a blood test". So two pieces of great news to tell my wife, I wont be at the birth of our 3rd child and I might be ill for the next few weeks. She'd be cool!
So my Mum arrived Tuesday night, I dropped Char at the hospital Wednesday morning and we showed/explained to the Nurses and Doctors my illness and they gave Char a private room (bonus!), away from the other new Babies and Mums and the medical staff suggested I didn't get too close to the baby when it came or Charlotte who was about to get cut open! I then rushed home took my kids to school, gave my mum the sat-nav and the keys to my other car and rushed back to the hospital. Char was still waiting and had been put to 3rd on the list. We had about an hour to wait and time seemed to start warping into slow motion and the longest hour of our lives slowly ticked by.... Eventually a midwife turned up and said "Do you want to walk to Theatre or ride on the bed?" Charlotte opted to walk and I sort of waved good bye and said I'll be back in a couple of hours to meet our new baby. Very very weird experience not even kissing or hugging my wife goodbye before she had one of the biggest and scariest experiences of her life.
I had 2 hours to kill and sitting in Charlotte's room may have driven me insane so I went to meet my mum in Bournemouth town centre for some coffee. I drove from Poole Hospital quite erratically, my mind was best described as confused. As I walked through Bournemouth town centre I had the strangest sense that I was in the wrong place, it felt like a weird dream where you can't get to a place you want or you have missed something for being in the wrong place. My trippy mind was probably not helped by my fever but it was one of the strangest sensations I've ever had.
I returned to the Hospital after about 2 hours and Charlotte wasn't back from recovery. I sat... well when I say sat I was pretty twitchy, my adrenalin was pumping overdrive and I started to worry... 10 minutes passed and eventually Charlotte and Cody arrived........... they both looked happy, Charlotte looked a bit yellow and felt very sick but she was smiling. I felt my tension and stress slowly drain away.
I brought Imogen and Billy to come and meet their brother at about 6pm and all seemed good in the world. Charlotte only stayed the 1 night in hospital and by Thursday afternoon I had a very full home. Happy days.
Cody 2 Hours Old
Imogen and Billy Meet Cody
Cody Home
So now I need to get better because I need a surf!
Tuesday 18 October 2011
Freaky Tuesday
Freaky Me Golfball Throat
I was thinking I may get a surf today but waking up this morning my throat felt a bit strange, looking in the mirror I was confronted with a freak show! My throat has 2 massive golfball like bulges sticking out of it. I thought I'd been feeling pretty strange lately but I'd put that down to stress. - - I've had some tricky issues with my work, general money worries with our overall house income about to massively drop, I'd had a call from some debt collectors about a debt my brother had ran up in my name! My Grandad has suddenly started dying, my mum has now cancelled coming to help us with our immanent babies arrival due to being with her dying dad, and there is the small matter of my wife having a Caesarian Section tomorrow.
So my question.... Is my throat thing (the docter doesn't know what it is and I need a blood test) a result of stress or have I been feeling a bit more stressed lately because I was obviously about to come down with this wierd illness?
It makes the whole K thing seem rather insignifficant. I still have idiots sending me anonymous threatening emails. Think they need to get a life!
Friday 14 October 2011
The Truth About K!!!!!!!!!!
I've had some abuse, it's not surprising, I've put myself out in 'webland' for all to read and you can never be quite sure how things will go down. Mostly people seem to be getting annoyed with my reference and reports regarding "K".
Now lets get a few things straight....
1) K, (not its real name) is not a secret spot, not even close. Fearing I might put some peoples noses out of joint who seem to be under the delusion that it is secret, I have referred to it as K. How can a spot be secret (or protected) when every surf spot guide has detailed guides on directions waves and best conditions. And that is not to stop the mass internet information available on when K will be working!
2) As a travelling surfer it would be complete madness to chose to travel to K. It is without doubt one the most fickle spots in the country. It basically only works on very clean groundswell which is coming in from a very limited direction. Also it is very exposed and is very badly effected by even the gentlest onshore winds, and if anybody thinks they understands the tide situation they are probably lying. I have turned up on 50% of occasions and driven home dry and I am relatively local and it can still be an hour and a half round trip.
3) The waves at K... Well the best waves are off limits 5 days a week.... The 'Bay' is only worth a look in the HUGEST of swells when you would definitely be better off elsewhere, and the other spot can be a paddle mission on a good swell but on most occasions is best left to Longboarders.
Being local, K sometimes provides joy and maybe that joy is somewhat exaggerated in our minds as we haven't had to drive to Cornwall that day to get some good waves. Because lets be brutal, the pier isn't really that good even on a good day. I think the anonymous comment left on my last K report sums things up....
"K, is a state of mind not a place my child.
The beautiful ketamine induced euphoria south coast surfers use to convince themselves it's firing.
Speak t'vetniary for more detailsand with respect people should not eyeball the very well known yet private K experience"
So I think less of the abuse and more of the stoke and reality check needed I think! I am happy to publish anybodies arguments or grievousness but I wont publish rudeness.
13th October.
Surf 51/16
Had a stoke filled mellow 2/3ft sunny warm glassy session at K only 4 out! I thought it might be flat when I turned up and a friend thought it would be overhead! We got somewhere in-between. Long waits between sets which varied between 1 and 4 waves. Tide moved extremely quickly from high to low. When it was low about 15 surfers turned up but the best had already been ridden.
Now lets get a few things straight....
1) K, (not its real name) is not a secret spot, not even close. Fearing I might put some peoples noses out of joint who seem to be under the delusion that it is secret, I have referred to it as K. How can a spot be secret (or protected) when every surf spot guide has detailed guides on directions waves and best conditions. And that is not to stop the mass internet information available on when K will be working!
2) As a travelling surfer it would be complete madness to chose to travel to K. It is without doubt one the most fickle spots in the country. It basically only works on very clean groundswell which is coming in from a very limited direction. Also it is very exposed and is very badly effected by even the gentlest onshore winds, and if anybody thinks they understands the tide situation they are probably lying. I have turned up on 50% of occasions and driven home dry and I am relatively local and it can still be an hour and a half round trip.
3) The waves at K... Well the best waves are off limits 5 days a week.... The 'Bay' is only worth a look in the HUGEST of swells when you would definitely be better off elsewhere, and the other spot can be a paddle mission on a good swell but on most occasions is best left to Longboarders.
Being local, K sometimes provides joy and maybe that joy is somewhat exaggerated in our minds as we haven't had to drive to Cornwall that day to get some good waves. Because lets be brutal, the pier isn't really that good even on a good day. I think the anonymous comment left on my last K report sums things up....
"K, is a state of mind not a place my child.
The beautiful ketamine induced euphoria south coast surfers use to convince themselves it's firing.
Speak t'vetniary for more detailsand with respect people should not eyeball the very well known yet private K experience"
So I think less of the abuse and more of the stoke and reality check needed I think! I am happy to publish anybodies arguments or grievousness but I wont publish rudeness.
13th October.
Surf 51/16
Had a stoke filled mellow 2/3ft sunny warm glassy session at K only 4 out! I thought it might be flat when I turned up and a friend thought it would be overhead! We got somewhere in-between. Long waits between sets which varied between 1 and 4 waves. Tide moved extremely quickly from high to low. When it was low about 15 surfers turned up but the best had already been ridden.
Monday 10 October 2011
Desperado Pier
10th October
50/15
Had a bit of a surf at the pier, waves were in the 1/2ft and very sloppy range but the tides was super low and there was a bit of a wedge into the pier which I sat on. Gary was out... longboarding! I was quite happy on my lovely 5'10 which I still think if there is a wave which is surfable I can surf it on this baby! who needs longboards :-) Ok it was a bit of desperado surf but it was warm and I have not surfed since last Friday......
50/15
Had a bit of a surf at the pier, waves were in the 1/2ft and very sloppy range but the tides was super low and there was a bit of a wedge into the pier which I sat on. Gary was out... longboarding! I was quite happy on my lovely 5'10 which I still think if there is a wave which is surfable I can surf it on this baby! who needs longboards :-) Ok it was a bit of desperado surf but it was warm and I have not surfed since last Friday......
Thursday 6 October 2011
New Surfboard on Test!!!
I have a lovely new surfboard to play with. Basically I am involved with a new online surf shop which will soon be going live and this board has been given to me to be used as a demo/test board which is still for sale. All surfs on this board will be documented on this blog, so if you like the sound of it you could break my heart and buy it for a complete bargain.
The board shaped by Adrian Phillips for Fluid Juice is pretty much a standard shortboard, 6'2 x 19 x 2 4/10 with a thruster set up, A squash tail with hard rails for the first 1/3 of the board which taper off into smooth round rails from about the mid point of the board. The boards bottom shape is single concave into double concave. The board has a subtle yet attractive spray job of what looks like grass growing from the tail fading into the middle of the board with the Fluid Juice logo in its usual top 1/3 of the board.
I have put LBX2 fins in this board as the board comes with the ever popular LokBox Fin System. I do love the solidness of the LokBox Fin System and the advantage of being able to move the fins forward or back depending on preference or surf conditions, but I often find I start to fall into the dilemma of where best to put the fins! I have set the fins up in the middle position. I have put an unbranded white tail pad on this board which has been given to me from a new surf brand which is depending on tests results maybe manufactured. The tail pad is a classic shaped 3 piece with the branded 3M sticky on the back.
This board would normally sell new for £425.
I am so excited about surfing this board and I have to admit I do especially love Fluid Juice boards. Like all Fluid Juice boards there is a nice solid feel about it and the glassing is maybe slighter thicker than other surfboard brands, the finish smells of pure quality and there is an artistic feel and look to the board. It has been a while since I have surfed a standard thruster short board and I am looking forward to getting on this baby.
The board shaped by Adrian Phillips for Fluid Juice is pretty much a standard shortboard, 6'2 x 19 x 2 4/10 with a thruster set up, A squash tail with hard rails for the first 1/3 of the board which taper off into smooth round rails from about the mid point of the board. The boards bottom shape is single concave into double concave. The board has a subtle yet attractive spray job of what looks like grass growing from the tail fading into the middle of the board with the Fluid Juice logo in its usual top 1/3 of the board.
I have put LBX2 fins in this board as the board comes with the ever popular LokBox Fin System. I do love the solidness of the LokBox Fin System and the advantage of being able to move the fins forward or back depending on preference or surf conditions, but I often find I start to fall into the dilemma of where best to put the fins! I have set the fins up in the middle position. I have put an unbranded white tail pad on this board which has been given to me from a new surf brand which is depending on tests results maybe manufactured. The tail pad is a classic shaped 3 piece with the branded 3M sticky on the back.
This board would normally sell new for £425.
I am so excited about surfing this board and I have to admit I do especially love Fluid Juice boards. Like all Fluid Juice boards there is a nice solid feel about it and the glassing is maybe slighter thicker than other surfboard brands, the finish smells of pure quality and there is an artistic feel and look to the board. It has been a while since I have surfed a standard thruster short board and I am looking forward to getting on this baby.
This board is for sale but please don't buy it yet!
Tuesday 4 October 2011
Beautiful K
29th September
It's always a risk going to K, there must be very few people who actually live close and with virtually no mobile reception down there, trying to get an accurate on the spot check is almost impossible and there is always the issue of the £5 toll road to put your nose out of joint. I must have turned up to find it flat or blowing a gale on at least 50% of occasions. The wave buoys could be showing 6ft and 12 seconds but if the swell is to much from the west things could be flat, and then there is the issue of the tide! I have lived down here and surfed K for over 10 years and I still couldn't tell you what the best tide is, some say high, some say low, some say high dropping some say low pushing some say mid and the fact is I don't think anyone has it truely nailed, the tides don't even run in a normal way, with double lows, double highs or seemingly mid all day! The description of 'fickle' is never more apt than when describing K. Maybe this adds to the stoke, getting it working well is so rare that when we do maybe it's that little bit more special.
Surf 48/13
My brother has lived in Bournemouth on and off for the last few years but has only been to K on 2 occasions, I thought surely today before he moves away again at the weekend he can see K working. The buoys were looking good and the weather was exceptional, windless and about 25c. The drive felt long with road works making us divert and was the beginning of rush hour, we eventually got to the top of the hill with the first view of the bay at about 4.30pm. Looking out it was completely flat, super glassy clean but not a ripple. We had some debate about going down the toll road to have a closer look and eventually decided to go for it. Thankfully the person who collects the money had gone for the day woho, although our happiness was soon tainted when we arrived at the car park to find no waves. Several surfers were milling around watching and waiting.....
A Set with only one wave rolled through, we decided and so did the other 3 surfers that it looked just about surfable and with such amazing weather getting in the water wasn't really a chore. Things could only get better, the tide was due to go from extreme low to extreme high within 3 hours and the swell was due to be increasing into tomorrow. Amazingly things did get better, super clean walled up lefts became longer and more consistent and I found myself on wave after wave, my 5'10 fish was loving it and so was I! We got out when it was dark and my arms were aching, the odd head high although mellow set had been surfed and we both felt seriously stoked!
I got home about 8.20pm and found myself in serious trouble with my (very pregnant) wife. She had planned a romantic dinner and I had forgotten to cancel a squash game with a mate. At 8.45pm I was playing squash and my dinner was in the bin!
Surf 49/14
Getting to bed (spare room!) about midnight after a long surf, squash game and no dinner, I was seriously tired and sore. The alarm went at 5.30am and I had to remind myself this was meant to be fun! I was meeting my good friend Ben (Spanish teacher from VVF sessions who likes to correct me on my bad English) and I new that first light was going to be best for tides and swell.
The countryside surrounding K was simply stunning, the valleys beneath the gentle hills had a thin layer of mist set against a dark blue sky and deep red horizon it looked like one of those rare stunning views you may see from an aeroplane or mountain range. Getting to the car park there was already about 10 recognisable vans and battered cars, and an enthusiastic early crew were checking and changing. Ben hadn't arrived yet and I couldn't wait and I was glad I didn't. I was the third guy on the peak and when a set came I got a stunning long overhead ride, my fish felt extremely loose but fun and fast and it wasn't long before I was on another ride. Lefts were definitely best and I found myself speeding away from the lip onto the shoulder then digging my tail in hard trying to cutback and rebound with varying success. Ben soon arrived and would enthusiastically tell me about each great wave he had, I saw him have a great (backhand) left where he managed to get his board fully vertical out the lip and slash it round beautifully. It was a very rare and stunning day had by all who surfed.
Ben bought me breakfast (did I say my new best friend.... OK I'm cheap what can I say?) and I left him to have a second surf while I went home to grovel!
I managed to make up with my wife and the afternoon was spent at the beach surfing the kids and then Fish and Chips.... Does it get much better?
It's always a risk going to K, there must be very few people who actually live close and with virtually no mobile reception down there, trying to get an accurate on the spot check is almost impossible and there is always the issue of the £5 toll road to put your nose out of joint. I must have turned up to find it flat or blowing a gale on at least 50% of occasions. The wave buoys could be showing 6ft and 12 seconds but if the swell is to much from the west things could be flat, and then there is the issue of the tide! I have lived down here and surfed K for over 10 years and I still couldn't tell you what the best tide is, some say high, some say low, some say high dropping some say low pushing some say mid and the fact is I don't think anyone has it truely nailed, the tides don't even run in a normal way, with double lows, double highs or seemingly mid all day! The description of 'fickle' is never more apt than when describing K. Maybe this adds to the stoke, getting it working well is so rare that when we do maybe it's that little bit more special.
Surf 48/13
My brother has lived in Bournemouth on and off for the last few years but has only been to K on 2 occasions, I thought surely today before he moves away again at the weekend he can see K working. The buoys were looking good and the weather was exceptional, windless and about 25c. The drive felt long with road works making us divert and was the beginning of rush hour, we eventually got to the top of the hill with the first view of the bay at about 4.30pm. Looking out it was completely flat, super glassy clean but not a ripple. We had some debate about going down the toll road to have a closer look and eventually decided to go for it. Thankfully the person who collects the money had gone for the day woho, although our happiness was soon tainted when we arrived at the car park to find no waves. Several surfers were milling around watching and waiting.....
A Set with only one wave rolled through, we decided and so did the other 3 surfers that it looked just about surfable and with such amazing weather getting in the water wasn't really a chore. Things could only get better, the tide was due to go from extreme low to extreme high within 3 hours and the swell was due to be increasing into tomorrow. Amazingly things did get better, super clean walled up lefts became longer and more consistent and I found myself on wave after wave, my 5'10 fish was loving it and so was I! We got out when it was dark and my arms were aching, the odd head high although mellow set had been surfed and we both felt seriously stoked!
I got home about 8.20pm and found myself in serious trouble with my (very pregnant) wife. She had planned a romantic dinner and I had forgotten to cancel a squash game with a mate. At 8.45pm I was playing squash and my dinner was in the bin!
Surf 49/14
Getting to bed (spare room!) about midnight after a long surf, squash game and no dinner, I was seriously tired and sore. The alarm went at 5.30am and I had to remind myself this was meant to be fun! I was meeting my good friend Ben (Spanish teacher from VVF sessions who likes to correct me on my bad English) and I new that first light was going to be best for tides and swell.
The countryside surrounding K was simply stunning, the valleys beneath the gentle hills had a thin layer of mist set against a dark blue sky and deep red horizon it looked like one of those rare stunning views you may see from an aeroplane or mountain range. Getting to the car park there was already about 10 recognisable vans and battered cars, and an enthusiastic early crew were checking and changing. Ben hadn't arrived yet and I couldn't wait and I was glad I didn't. I was the third guy on the peak and when a set came I got a stunning long overhead ride, my fish felt extremely loose but fun and fast and it wasn't long before I was on another ride. Lefts were definitely best and I found myself speeding away from the lip onto the shoulder then digging my tail in hard trying to cutback and rebound with varying success. Ben soon arrived and would enthusiastically tell me about each great wave he had, I saw him have a great (backhand) left where he managed to get his board fully vertical out the lip and slash it round beautifully. It was a very rare and stunning day had by all who surfed.
Ben bought me breakfast (did I say my new best friend.... OK I'm cheap what can I say?) and I left him to have a second surf while I went home to grovel!
I managed to make up with my wife and the afternoon was spent at the beach surfing the kids and then Fish and Chips.... Does it get much better?
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