16th December 2011
Surf 70/35
Wow what a day, what a week, imagine a surfer from a good/well known surfing destination from abroad came to visit a long lost family member in Bournemouth arriving last Sunday and leaving again on Saturday, this 'imaginary' person may actually go home thinking Bournemouth is not a bad place to live, lots of clean swell and actually a few good shaped waves, if you timed it right and avoided the obvious place to surf you could even have a few uncrowded sessions... Ok it is rare to get 5 days in a row of... yes I'm going to say it... good waves at the pier, but I think it may have just happened. It may have been a bit chilly but the sun has been out, the sky has often been blue and the wind has been quite light and mostly cross/off. We've been getting so much swell that the sand banks are starting to produce much better shaped waves, the classic right (super bank) which I first experienced a couple of years ago is just starting to show, (I remember Guy at the time said it hadn't been like this for 20 years) and shall we just for a minute just think about about that left!......... I always loved that inside left towards the pier but now it's gone mental. It actually feels almost Hossegor-ish, sucky and seriously punchy, several times I've wiped out on it I've hit the sand and got nicely worked in a very French way. (minus the warmth).
This has been a very good Autumn and beginning of Winter, I've surfed 35 times since September! I reckon I must have missed at least 10 sessions due to illness and babies etc and some of them quite good by all accounts, also I've mostly only surfed once in a day! I'm feeling it today, my body is sore, my head is fuzzy and the rash on my neck is very raw. But what am I to do when the waves keep coming and I have very few excuses not to surf them, saying that my wife did actually comment that I'm 'taking the piss' today!
Bit of a mixed bag today, got the early calls and decided to jump in the van with Dan and go exploring most of Dorset, possibly a bad move as when leaving my house my (lovely) wife irritatedly said 'I thought you might take me out for coffee today being the last day before the kids are off school'.... why is it women like to go out for coffee when we have a perfectly good kettle at home? (I instinctively thought).. anyway a couple of hours later I was back at home and very dry... I took my wife out... Then got the kids an early finish at 1.30pm... Then I went surfing at the pier.... I had a fantastic session mostly on my own or with just a couple of others on the west side, it was clean 3/4ft and very fun, I got loads of waves, mainly rights... and my new board, which I haven't even talked about in this blog yet, was working like a dream!
I think there is more surf around the weekend, I may actually have to do some work so I'm not sure of my chances of getting wet... ah well.... Let the good times roll....
Friday 16 December 2011
Thursday 15 December 2011
SURFED OUT... More Pier and Magic D
14th December
68/33
Better born lucky than rich, and I'm a long way from rich, maybe if I did a bit more work and less surf it may help my financial situation. Anyway apart from being healthy/married/kids/house bla bla bla yeah very lucky.. I have lovely friends who phone me of a morning giving me very early on the spot surf reports. Happy days and they keep coming. Each evening I go to bed thinking I'm too tired to surf tomorrow my limbs ache, I can't think straight and my wife keeps saying I'm acting weird... I'm not acting weird I'm just too knackered to answer back I have 'winter surf brain' the cold draws more energy and my brain cells aren't getting fuelled. Even writing this is like some kind of mission.
So when the morning call came and Gary was talking longboards, and mellow small waves I thought great a rest day, 2 hours later "Mate it's classic" came down the phone and "I can't remember having a surf that good at the pier".... oh 'ass wipes' I thought, I have to go!
Actually I did have a lot of fun mostly surfing the west side of the pier with Mason, Matt and Greg. Good fun punchy lefts with inside wally sucky barrels were had before the wind got up. Going over to the east side I saw Kim get some stonking sucky lefts towards the pier, although it was mentioned that it possibly wasn't 'the best pier ever', I wasn't the only person to hear from Gary and as Guy quipped 'It doesn't count on a long board' hehehe
15th December
69/34
Another day another surf, rotating wetsuits at least has meant always a dry one to put on although my Xcel is a let down after the Snuggly Snug. I had 2 calls this morning, both telling me the same thing, 'Pier going off and biggest ever!!' I had my 5 year old sons school play in the morning and I didn't really fancy a crowded close out pier so I text Gav, 'what you doing today? I think Magic D on, I'm free from 12'. Gav who likes to talk about pre-webcam/dickheads on Blogs, surf days, and surfing K alone 25 years ago is always up for bit of an adventure and although not local will always make the effort to get his ass down here from Surrey when it looks good.
Gav picked me up at 12pm and we were in the water alone at Magic D for 1pm shortly followed by Deane, Woody and a couple of other guys. The waves were inconsistent, sometimes great and then long waits between sets, but super clean, head high when they came and always good when there is only a friendly few out.
It's looking on again tomorrow.. The rash on my neck is horrendous, I can't I keep this up... ok I might :-)
Boards Boards Boards at super cheap prices and they really are tasty... If you want the list email me... benmottram1@yahoo.co.uk
68/33
Better born lucky than rich, and I'm a long way from rich, maybe if I did a bit more work and less surf it may help my financial situation. Anyway apart from being healthy/married/kids/house bla bla bla yeah very lucky.. I have lovely friends who phone me of a morning giving me very early on the spot surf reports. Happy days and they keep coming. Each evening I go to bed thinking I'm too tired to surf tomorrow my limbs ache, I can't think straight and my wife keeps saying I'm acting weird... I'm not acting weird I'm just too knackered to answer back I have 'winter surf brain' the cold draws more energy and my brain cells aren't getting fuelled. Even writing this is like some kind of mission.
So when the morning call came and Gary was talking longboards, and mellow small waves I thought great a rest day, 2 hours later "Mate it's classic" came down the phone and "I can't remember having a surf that good at the pier".... oh 'ass wipes' I thought, I have to go!
Actually I did have a lot of fun mostly surfing the west side of the pier with Mason, Matt and Greg. Good fun punchy lefts with inside wally sucky barrels were had before the wind got up. Going over to the east side I saw Kim get some stonking sucky lefts towards the pier, although it was mentioned that it possibly wasn't 'the best pier ever', I wasn't the only person to hear from Gary and as Guy quipped 'It doesn't count on a long board' hehehe
15th December
69/34
Another day another surf, rotating wetsuits at least has meant always a dry one to put on although my Xcel is a let down after the Snuggly Snug. I had 2 calls this morning, both telling me the same thing, 'Pier going off and biggest ever!!' I had my 5 year old sons school play in the morning and I didn't really fancy a crowded close out pier so I text Gav, 'what you doing today? I think Magic D on, I'm free from 12'. Gav who likes to talk about pre-webcam/dickheads on Blogs, surf days, and surfing K alone 25 years ago is always up for bit of an adventure and although not local will always make the effort to get his ass down here from Surrey when it looks good.
Gav picked me up at 12pm and we were in the water alone at Magic D for 1pm shortly followed by Deane, Woody and a couple of other guys. The waves were inconsistent, sometimes great and then long waits between sets, but super clean, head high when they came and always good when there is only a friendly few out.
It's looking on again tomorrow.. The rash on my neck is horrendous, I can't I keep this up... ok I might :-)
Boards Boards Boards at super cheap prices and they really are tasty... If you want the list email me... benmottram1@yahoo.co.uk
Wednesday 14 December 2011
Shock Horror Good Surf At the Pier!!!!!
13th December
Surf 67/32
Amazing scenes of glory as I left the water after a surprisingly fun session at the pier, chunky solid lefthanders into the pier sucky and punchy really really fun. only about 8 out and no hassles... crazy scenes. I nearly got chopped in half a few times. Had loads of waves. HAppy days!
A friend of mine has 45 brand new shiny very high quality boards for sale all shapes and sizes by top UK surfboard brands at silly cheap prices, so if you need a board or even if you don't but want the bargain of the century, email me benmottram1@yahoo.co.uk
Surf 67/32
Amazing scenes of glory as I left the water after a surprisingly fun session at the pier, chunky solid lefthanders into the pier sucky and punchy really really fun. only about 8 out and no hassles... crazy scenes. I nearly got chopped in half a few times. Had loads of waves. HAppy days!
A friend of mine has 45 brand new shiny very high quality boards for sale all shapes and sizes by top UK surfboard brands at silly cheap prices, so if you need a board or even if you don't but want the bargain of the century, email me benmottram1@yahoo.co.uk
Monday 12 December 2011
Bourne-busy-mouth Classic
I received this picture at 7.55 this morning to my Mobile...
There are several annoying things about this picture, firstly, the waves are looking good, empty and I am not riding them. Second, pictures like this lead to vastly exaggerated high expectations of my potential surf in Bournemouth which on most occasions, including today's will be dashed by the reality that a handful of waves every set will be fought for by about 20+ other surfers all sitting in the same small tight take off zone!
Ok I'm coming across very grumpy and I'm sorry, I can't help it. But what should have been a great little session I found extremely frustrating. At least the vibe was generally good and friendly, there was chatter, banter and laughs all round, but is it just me or doesn't any surfer in Bournemouth actually have a normal job that surfing on a winters morning around 11am would make impossible? Of coarse they do and that is why weekends have now become insane. Surely the worst thing about the current economic crisis is that more people will not be working and making cold winter mornings in the sea even more crowded. So please Mr Cam and your Gay Lib Lover, could you please stop kissing each others butts and find some jobs for a few wastiod surfers so I could go back to surfing mellow cold winter mornings on my own......
Ahh glad to get that off my chest.. Maybe its because I haven't been in the water for a while, had a nasty cold for at least 5 days but think I am clean now. I went for full hood and gloves today, towards the end of the session my feet started to get cold, I think my boots are leaking and I may have to regally start using my SNUG suit.
Surfed a new board today, a lovely Fluid Juice Quad Rocket 6'1, bloody lovely board shame I didn't have a few more waves on it
This was Surf 66/31
A friend of mine has 45 brand new shiny very high quality boards for sale all shapes and sizes by top UK surfboard brands at silly cheap prices, so if you need a board or even if you don't but want the bargain of the century, email me benmottram1@yahoo.co.uk
There are several annoying things about this picture, firstly, the waves are looking good, empty and I am not riding them. Second, pictures like this lead to vastly exaggerated high expectations of my potential surf in Bournemouth which on most occasions, including today's will be dashed by the reality that a handful of waves every set will be fought for by about 20+ other surfers all sitting in the same small tight take off zone!
Ok I'm coming across very grumpy and I'm sorry, I can't help it. But what should have been a great little session I found extremely frustrating. At least the vibe was generally good and friendly, there was chatter, banter and laughs all round, but is it just me or doesn't any surfer in Bournemouth actually have a normal job that surfing on a winters morning around 11am would make impossible? Of coarse they do and that is why weekends have now become insane. Surely the worst thing about the current economic crisis is that more people will not be working and making cold winter mornings in the sea even more crowded. So please Mr Cam and your Gay Lib Lover, could you please stop kissing each others butts and find some jobs for a few wastiod surfers so I could go back to surfing mellow cold winter mornings on my own......
Ahh glad to get that off my chest.. Maybe its because I haven't been in the water for a while, had a nasty cold for at least 5 days but think I am clean now. I went for full hood and gloves today, towards the end of the session my feet started to get cold, I think my boots are leaking and I may have to regally start using my SNUG suit.
Surfed a new board today, a lovely Fluid Juice Quad Rocket 6'1, bloody lovely board shame I didn't have a few more waves on it
This was Surf 66/31
A friend of mine has 45 brand new shiny very high quality boards for sale all shapes and sizes by top UK surfboard brands at silly cheap prices, so if you need a board or even if you don't but want the bargain of the century, email me benmottram1@yahoo.co.uk
Thursday 1 December 2011
The Standard... Windy Pier
How many times has it been windy and you find your self in some kind of social situation with people who don't surf and they say to you 'you must be loving all this wind great for waves.' And then you find yourself trying to explain to them that local winds are no good and what 'us surfers' really need is.... bla bla bla... As I explain the same old spiel I can see their eyes glazing over and what they are really thinking is 'I don't really give a fuck, I was just trying to be friendly'...... I would like to say 'yeah it's great' but I can't help myself, my wife always says I talk too much and give way more information than I need too.
I think I'm actually speaking bollocks anyway, we love wind in Bournemouth, wind is like our life blood, without wind we would virtually have no waves. Whenever we do get the rare decent ground swells which make it up the channel the waves tend to closeout anyway! Maybe in my head I live in some alternate universe where we get regular ground swell and we surf in board shorts, the reality is most of our surfing is done in winter in howling cross/onshore gales and we love it (well kind of).
So next time the wind is blowing a hoolie and some friendly person tells me I must be loving all this wind, I'll say 'yeah there is a bit of 'Wind Swell' around and I had a few good waves earlier.'
29th/30th November
Surf 64/29
Surf 65/30
I had a small amount of fun surfing the messy 'Wind Waves' at the pier. At least the crowds were down which is some consolation!
We seem to be blessed with a constant supply of swell, I now have a very sore throat and feel a bit ill, I may have to have a few days off.
I think I'm actually speaking bollocks anyway, we love wind in Bournemouth, wind is like our life blood, without wind we would virtually have no waves. Whenever we do get the rare decent ground swells which make it up the channel the waves tend to closeout anyway! Maybe in my head I live in some alternate universe where we get regular ground swell and we surf in board shorts, the reality is most of our surfing is done in winter in howling cross/onshore gales and we love it (well kind of).
So next time the wind is blowing a hoolie and some friendly person tells me I must be loving all this wind, I'll say 'yeah there is a bit of 'Wind Swell' around and I had a few good waves earlier.'
29th/30th November
Surf 64/29
Surf 65/30
I had a small amount of fun surfing the messy 'Wind Waves' at the pier. At least the crowds were down which is some consolation!
We seem to be blessed with a constant supply of swell, I now have a very sore throat and feel a bit ill, I may have to have a few days off.
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