Good Morning Biarritz!!

23^rd August

The rest of yesterday was spent chilling with the kids in Hoss Park, bumped into Dan again! I think I see him more in Hossegor than Bournemouth!

Surf 34

Surfed 3/4ft peaky powerful and slightly unpredictable waves at Grande Plage Biarritz. We decided to try another spot with the low tide in the morning and still big disorganised swell, our options were to go north and battle the long paddle outs and heavy rips or go south try something new. 

Driving through Biarritz in the dark with empty roads and only the odd end of night partygoer and morning road sweepers for company is always quite a surreal experience. Watching the gradual cross between night and day, the cleaners sweeping up the beach sleepers, followed by morning joggers and dog walkers and a quickly crowded line up making the water the busiest place in town for a few hours. A young sponsored girl was showing about 50+ men how to surf the peaky steep waves. I always enjoy the early sessions in Biarritz.   

Hot Hot Hot and a new swell

21^st August 11

So so so…. So Hot! Crazy heat yesterday and it was still steaming at 8am this morning. Surfed some more perfect little waves with the kids and spent most of the afternoon seeking shade and cold water to sit in.

Surf 32

The swell eventually arrived although so did the cooler weather and cross on shore wind making our evening surf a messy/chunky and unsatisfactory affair.

22^nd August

Surf 33

Big but a messy new swell hitting the shore, cross shore early winds were replaced by still to slight off shore winds as the session progressed. We surfed Bunkers and although most of the session was crowd free towards the end the madding crowd arrived and made things sketchy in the 3/4ft dumpy and unpredictable waves. I had a few fun fast and mostly short waves Hopefully things will improve as the swell matures. Surfed the Bonzer.

First and Last Flat Spell!

17^th August

Day off surfing today, it didn’t look to be all that and I needed the rest!

Our friends Chris and Juliet from Bournemouth turned up and are staying with us for a few days. Chris rides a wave ski, I had a go once and was extremely hard, not sure how Chris is going to handle the waves around here!

18^th August

Surf 31

A clean short range 2/3ft wave was not to bad that’s more than I can say for my auful surfing. I think fatigue and non stop early starts has eventually taken its toll and I and now a worse surfer than when I arrived! Andy back on it

19^th August

Had another day off surfing!!! It was too small to even bother getting up to check! I bumped into Dan Magee from Bournemouth today! He was driving through Capbreton and we were cycling towards Hoss Park. He has had a terrible time so far on his campsite and looks like he will be moving to ours on Sunday!

20^th August

Another tiny day possibly the smallest I have ever seen.

I surfed some mid tide 1/2ft perfection with the kids! Took a few tiny rides my self. Had lots of fun! Extremely hot!

It looks like the swell is back tomorrow, So will get some quality waves right up to the end of the holiday. Hopefully my surfing can improve!!!

  

This photo on Magic Seaweed 7th of August. Tasty!

This photo was apparently taken on the 7th August. It was taken where I have spent pretty much the whole trip surfing. It was the day Andy and I went to the mountains and I did that crazy run!, we surfed in the morning but it got really good as we were leaving!

Check the Link...  

http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=230375&photoOfTheDay

Check surf 19 on my blog, I did get a mini barrel nothing quite this impressive!

Perfect Secrets and Billy is 5!!

10^th August

Surf 22

Ben arrived today with his dry wit and expected pisstake out of this blog! He was bouncing and desperate to check the surf wile Andy and I were unusually slow getting changed. Climbing to the top of the dune we were greeted with beautiful firing barrels at our secret spot, 3/4ft glassy and enough power to push a train over. ‘Frenchie’ was out showing us all how to surf the place, we all managed a few fantastic waves and Ben commented on the quality of this amazing find. Surfed my Bonzer I think it needs waves of this quality to really get it going.

11^th August

Surf 23

The morning was slightly onshore and the swell had dropped although our secret spot (needs a name) was as powerful as ever but today was hard to surf, Frenchie made it look possible, but my wave count was low.

12^th August

Surf 24

Ben turned up again this morning with 2 Spanish (sorry Basque!) friends. The surf at VVF was super clean although closing out so we all headed up to Les Bourdaines  in separate vehicles and didn’t manage to meet again! The swell looked great but was very rippy and very hard work. Couldn’t get near the waves at times, I had a couple of good rides but massive amount of paddling for very little joy. I felt sluggish heavy and old in these waves and my bonzer would have happily been replaced with a long board. My frustration was compounded by a young thin bikini clad girl paddling right past me and proceeding to rip up the next perfect long left as if she was Kelly Slater’s daughter! I got out after that!

13^th August,

Surf 25 Perfecto… Barrels Galore!!!!

Ben Joined the show again and I did feel slightly embarrassed turning up at the secret spot with me, Andy, Ben and 3 Spanish (sorry Basque!) mates. Frenchie and his mate were out and he didn’t look too pleased to see us. The waves were truly pumping perfect heavy heavy barrels, swell in the 4/5ft range, I don’t think it is possible to get a heavier wave on such a small swell. I ate sand a few times and got plenty of views from inside and out! I actually suffered one of my heaviest wipe outs of the trip so far, with the waves so perfect and a bunch of mates watching, backing out of a steep drop would have been greeted with justified ridicule. As I free-fell from an enormous drop I new before I hit the water/sand this could hurt, kicking the board away just before impact I soon felt myself being sucked back round into the lip and then being pummelled into the sand again, I tried frantically to cover my head with my arms but the wave ripped my arms in different directions and I was lucky not to hit my board. Gasping for breath and seriously disorientated I got to my feet in thigh deep water, I stared at the land for a second or two wile I came to my senses and realised which way I was facing! I turned to see my crew only about 5 metres away looking out to sea and completely unaware of my near death experience. As I paddled back my arms were shaking but it wasn't long before I was attempting another top to bottom beauty. At the end of the 3.5 hour session Ben called it an SF (Stoke Factor) 8. I was inclined to agree. Thinking back maybe an 8.5 could have been given.

14^th August

surf 26

A bit slack and week light onshore in the 3ft range and Ben was wise not to travel up.

Surf 27

Quality offshore glass off at secret spot. Had some lovely 3/4ft waves and surfed until it was impossible to see. A dude who looked like a mini Jimmy Hendrix and surfed like Kelly Slater left me gulping in awe and respect at his talents, he gave me a friendly wave as we paddled over making me like him even more. The best surfer I have seen this year and the most friendly surfing a little known quality spot which he obviously had nailed. Big respect all round. Andy suffered another nasty wipe out and injured his leg badly. That’s 2 bad injuries in the same spot, it is definitely a wave of consequence when you screw up! 

15^th August

surf 28

On my own as Andy I surfed the secret spot alone for an hour before Frenchy Joined me I foolishly took my fish out and this wave is so not a fish wave! Had lots of fun but got out when the tide got too low and the place turned into Pipeline. Slight onshore but the waves were clean.

surf 29

Swell increased massively and I went out on a hoigh tide VVF in the 5/6ft range and probably some of the biggest waves I have seen all trip. Reminded me of some February sessions at Yellows. Slight onshore but clean. I took my 6’2 quad, probably should have been on my Lynch but I wasn’t expecting such size. Alone again as Andy was still out 

16^th August

Billy Birthday 5 today

Surf 30

Birthday surfs are always good and having my new favourite wave all to my self for over an hour with quality 3/4ft glassy waves was a joy, if not a little scary at times (Andy’s injuries played on my mind!). ‘Jimi’ joined me and was even more friendly than the other night, towards the end of my session Ben arrived with ‘Basque’ Jon, around this time a couple of boogie boarders turned up and soon another couple of surfers arrived! My secret spot all of a sudden wasn’t looking all that secret! And the waves started to seem a lot less consistent. It didn’t matter as I had my fill and I had to get off and buy cakes and treats for my boy.

Sole surfing on my sons Birthday

Andy Still Out!

Took the kids to the water park where we all enjoyed death slides galore. Had a little party in the evening. Billly was very Happy

Run Sun and Surf!

7^th August

The rest of yesterday was spent in Hoss Park with the kids. Andy and I had a jolly around the most expensive surf shops in the world looking for a surf ‘Gaf Helmet’ to protect the gash in Andy’s head. I do find the super branded mass corporate, commercial side of Hossegor quite nauseating. We managed to find a pair of board shorts for 175 euros!!!! Only the most desperate of very rich or stupid surfers should ever buy anything from these shops and on this day Andy was falling into the desperate category. A very pretty girl with a surprisingly harsh voice, typically un-knowledgeable about anything surf related, spent some time going back and forth to a store room and coming back with different sized helmets. Half an hour later Andy was 110 euros worse off and I was feeling weirdly sick, dirty and slightly embarrassed as if I’d just stepped out of a porn shop with a brown paper bag!           

Surf 19 

Magic Seaweed was calling 5.5ft 8 sec west swell with off shore wind. So turning up at VVF I was definitely disappointed to see a big, angry and disorganised swell. The tide was mid and pushing so we checked out Sports nobody in and nasty close outs and  at Bunkers we were part of a crowd watching some fool hardy soles dropping into very large impossible barrels. We headed for north Hossegor, we didn’t fancy fighting Graviere and the 3 surfers who did were exceptionally talented and they didn’t make it look easy. The waves at the breakwater which were usually more mellow but today was just a surging shore break. So we went back to Capbreton checked Sports again, only 3 in and they weren’t able to get rides and 2 of them were on boogie boards! We eventually found some super fast mainly rights off the inside of the breakwater at Towns beach, we only managed an hour before a just about make-able wave became impossible. I did managed to get a barrel which I came out of and a few more visions but all in all it was a very disappointing session which was compounded when we again cycled past Sports to see perfect 5/6ft A frame barrels rolling in, although the 50 or so other surfers made it look pretty intense!

We were now late back after spending 2 hours checking and an hour surfing and the talk in camp was for a day trip to La Rhune, The mountain clearly visible from Biarritz, last year I cycled up and down it and this year I ran it with Tam, Andys wife. The rest of the crew sensibly got the train! That evening we went to Acotz area (near Lafitania) and ate Pizza wile watching the sunset from a little café, after tea the kids ran into the shore break and I watched my naked son getting hammered by well over head waves (over head for him!) only to run back in for more beatings, I decided to end proceedings before broken bones occurred!

My legs were seizing up and I went to bed praying for wind and rain, an early was looking almost impossible for my fragile stiff body.

1 hour 2 minutes up

57 minutes down.     

Photos from one very full day!!

Me and Tam on the final sprint to the top 

Imogen enjoying the ponies on La Rhune

A well earned meal coming, Billy was very happy with the days events

Me and Char, Sunset in Acotz (nice right hander in back ground!)

 View from train on way up La Rhune

And finally Billy and Imogen about to taste the sand!

    

8^th August…Sore legs

Walking hurt, actually existing wasn’t too comfortable, I wasn’t able to moan in Andy’s direction as any complaints would only be met with disapproving looks suggesting that doing anything which would or could jeopardise surfing in France was frankly irresponsible and blatantly stupid! So I suffered in silence and walked slowly!     

Surf 20

The swell was huge and the wind was blowing strong onshore, It was almost like I had planned the run knowing the early wouldn’t be on! At around 7pm Andy some how managed to persuade me to drive south and check the Acotz breaks and maybe head for the dreaded Hendaye! Some lame excuses about family members using his Van to sleep in meant me driving was the only option! We arrived at Lafitania to see double over head waves providing long rights around the point, I was about to wax my Lynch up but after further discussion the 100 or so other surfers in the water and my general fatigue a foolish decision was made to go to Hendaye, due to the time and quickly dropping Sun this was do or bust!

We arrived to see what looked to be a quality swell a solid 4/5ft with regular waves pumping through. It must have been some strange illusion as what we actually surfed were the most frustrating waves planet earth has to offer and lets remember I live in Bournemouth! The wave would go then back off then go again hit some inside bank suck up and close out, I managed to eek out the odd ride on my fish but it wasn’t pretty…..

The best way to describe Hendaye maybe ‘flatter to deceive’. What looks from the shore as not bad get in quick, almost always is a let down. I’m not sure what Andy and I thought we were seeing when we first pulled up, maybe it was my general fatigue, maybe Andy was reminiscing back to a swell 8 years ago when we spent a 5 day trip surfing Hendaye every day (November and a 20ft swell) but this was pants and in future will be left to the surf schools and serious desperados! 

9^th August

Surf 21

We went early to Lafitania to try and rectify the mistakes from the night before, we turned up and already about 40 people were surfing clean 4/5ft waves. A frustrating surf some good waves but too many people on them!

Day spent at Lac St Pee. Kids loving it!!!

Billy practising his jump up on Lac Pee and Imogen swimming close by.

Does it get any better?

5^th August. This is where it starts to get really fun

The rest of yesterday was spent body surfing with the kids at Sports, and then chilling in the afternoon getting myself ready for the earlier.

Surf 17 PERFECTO!!!

Simply put…. 5ft glassy no wind Mid high tide VVF banks firing some chunky glassy walls. When Andy and I got out at around 9.30am people were literally running down the dune to get in. Looking back across the beach at the end of the session 100s of bodies and boards could be seen, bobbing, dodging, and surfing in-between perfect waves from about 2 peaks to the left of VVF all the way down to the Bunkers at La Piest.

I was concerned about taking my Bonzer out before I got to the surf. It is so extremely different to my fish, that I thought the I might struggle to catch waves and put myself in good positions on the wave, but when waves are that good and powerful, paddling in becomes easy and the lack of buoyancy and the extra control and the ability to take extremely late very steep drops made surfing a pure joy.

Better in real life!

Probably an 8 on the Stoke factor rating, and if it wasn’t for the people could have been a 10! Luckilly the Locals don’t do dawnies!

The Day was spent in St Jean de Luz, kids crabbed and swam, and laughed and played, Imogen said it was her best day ever, although she has stated that a lot this holiday!

Too tired for eveing session, drank beer instead!

6^th August

Surf 18……Nearly a 10

Funny thing just happened, I wrote the date as 6^th of Feb! I quickly deleted it and wrote 6^th of August. On the 6^th of Feb last year Gary and I paddled out on one of the biggest swells we had both ever seen on the south coast, head and a half high waves and often bigger were pounding our favourite spot, after nearly driving away we decided to paddle out and attempt to surf it. Gary quickly got himself a stonking long right hander and it wasn’t long before he was paddling right past me again and towards the impact zone, his pecker up and confidence sky high he needed more of the same, a minute or so later the horizon did that thing where it vanishes and darkens. Head down I paddled hard left and towards the channel, looking back as I took about 4 strokes to climb the swelling mass of water under me I could see Gary attempt one of the most ballsy duck dives I’ve seen. He didn’t make it and it took him a wile before he surfaced, all looked well and I carried on paddling for the channel only to see Gary paddling in. I quickly followed, and wile walking past a succession of other surfers on the way out, getting back to the car I already new it was game over for today. Some how Gary had been cracked open his head blood everywhere and stitches were needed. I had managed 20 minutes and no rides in some of the best waves I have seen in years.

Swell was a bit smaller than yesterday so we decided to check our secret spot. It was PERFECT nobody out just Andy and I accompanied a strong off shore and 4ft of Magazine style top to bottom perfection they were the best waves I have seen all trip and managed to sneak under that watery curtain on several occasions. I was truly buzzing. As Andy turned to go for a no hoper I laughed as I saw board fly high in the air and then waited to see that he was ok. He came up holding his head and then paddled in. The waves were only breaking less than 10 metres from the shore so I started paddling to see if he was ok. He waved me back as if to say he was fine and would be coming back in soon. A minute or so later he held is hand up to me covered in blood. It was a long walk back and I couldn’t leave Andy with his head bleeding so once again exactly 18 months after the last time my surf buddy got a head injury my surf was cut short again. Andy apologised a lot and said I didn’t have to come but I think it would have taken a bit of gloss off the session if I hadn’t!

It’s funny its also the 18 surf of this trip…. Oooowwwww spooky… ok not really just a bizarre and slightly frustrating coincidence. I can’t believe he went for that wave, what the F**** was he thinking!

Still at least on this occasion I had a load of quality waves and at least an hour to surf them. This session was looking like a 10!   

With August comes hot weather and hopefully big swell!

1^st August Hot Hot Hot

It was hot today, really friggin hot! We spent most of the day at the beach in St Jean de Luz. It was truly stunning and although supposed to be a rest and recovery day for my very sore arms Andy did persuaded me to swim out to some buoys in the bay. The water was so glassy, warm and tranquil set to a backdrop of the Pyrenees, even when there are no waves, St Jean de Luz has to be one of the most beautiful towns in Europe and the swim was worth the effort.

When back on site the humidity was building so we took the kids for a late swim. We had the pool to our selves and it wasn’t until about 9.30pm when a massive crack of thunder that Billy decided it was time to stop swimming! The rain never came but we were treated to some natural fireworks. Aparently on Andys car thermometer the outside temp at 7pm was 38C! It was one of those extremely hot days that you never get in the UK and luckily don’t get to often down here. Char survived by sitting in the sea for most of the day.

2^nd Aug

Andy didn’t wake for the morning surf?! I stood outside his tent at 6.30am wisper shouting his name but to no effect, seeing plenty of movement itn the trees and a stormy outlook I foolishly went back to my bed. I found out later Glassy windless 3ft waves were available…. AAAHHHH….. One day off and momentum lost.

Surf 14

We ended up surfing in the late afternoon in some strong on shores and quite a High tide. The waves still had a good bit of Punch and the rights were very fun in the 3/4ft range. I surfed my fish which I am getting strangely addicted too and VVF was the call.

3^rd Aug 

We new it would be Blown out before we got to the beach but for some reason we carried on all the way to prove it for sure, perhaps it was after missing out yesterday? Bed was calling and back we rode.

Surf 15

A carbon copy of yesterday but smaller 2/3ft and weaker swell still on shore and the huge high tide didn’t help our situation. Not the best surf we have ever had!

4^th Aug.

Surf 16

Well rarely I am writing this only half an hour after completing the surf. It was a classic French summers morning crisp and cold with clear skies off shores and peaky 2ft perfect shaped waves. The wait for the sets was frustrating and the extreme high tide wasn’t the best but some fun was had and there was a lovely summer mellow ness to the session… Again on my fish not sure what to ride tomorrow when things are looking quite exciting with 5ft of swell and off shore winds. I am thinking the Bonzer!

The out look is very very promising after a run of smaller swell Tomorrow is looking PERFECTO!