I can't get no satisfaction...

I am fed up, it's freezing cold and my wave count this winter is pitiful, yeah I have got in a few times although uncharacteristically for me I have managed to miss a few sessions, the weekend before last both Saturday and Sunday were showing a very rideable wave at the pier, but as I took my eye off the ball again, my wife seized the opportunity to get me fully embroiled in family life and by the time I'd noticed a wave the light and the tide had beaten me. Those tides were big, I noticed you could walk out dry to level with the main part of the pier.

What's going on? Am I losing it? My drive, enthusiasm, some may say fanaticism! I don't think so. It's just been so weak, a bit pathetic and a bit too small to get excited about. And with it being the middle of winter I kinda (foolishly) expected a little more. Dressing up like a gimp to ponce around in 2ft slop does feel a bit desperate even by my standards, so when the chance came to go west again at the weekend I initially was right up for it only to check the forecast and question will it be good enough to quench my thirst. In the end I thought not. So another week passes and only one measly surf at K just about keeps me going.

Surf 40/75 27th January
To be honest I wasn't expecting much but the desperation of the lack of surf still kept me just about enthusiastic enough to bother. When I got to K the wind was gently coming from the north-west and there was some signs of slight chop on the water. Matt (Hull Pig Dog Boy) was watching and waiting and only one person was in the water. The size looked 'alright' (go on Spanish tell me off for that one!) probably in the head high range, so I was quickly changed and out back. I had a few waves but it was hard to work out where best to sit, the swell was inconsistent and weak, but at least the sun was out and it started to feel warm. It wasn't long before a crowd of fellow desperado's had joined me and things were quite busy which only added to my frustration as I fell off yet another wave... I kept falling off, I originally put this down to weak waves and small board but then that little French dude Gordon Fontaine paddled out and the first wave I saw him take was a small right hander.... pump pump pump... bang.. 360 air... bloody hell he is good... And maybe these waves aren't so bad! I felt a little more frustrated.....

I hate winter, well do hate winter?... Actually yes, although it becomes a little more bearable when surfing a few big winter swells... Cmon February don't let me down..............

Nice mellow clean day at the pier

Surf 39/74 19th January 


I don't think it's been the best January for surf I've ever known, but there was a surprisingly clean mellow 2ft wave today at the pier and with crowds minimal, happy days were had by all who surfed it. Maybe the winterness is actually starting to put people off, the last week has felt pretty cold with that easterly wind, but today felt positively balmy! In my usual attire of full hood and mittens I actually felt hot and if anything I think it may have been slowing me down. Mason paddled out with no hood or gloves and said he felt fine and as he seemed to be catching impossibly fat waves with his skinny little board I felt more and more sluggish and old and found myself drooling over Dan's minimal as he took yet another long mellow right hander. The rights were long and mellow and the lefts were short but a bit more punchy, although not quite doing that sucky thing sadly. How long the banks will stay like this is anyone's guess but they are definitely producing a bit more consistency in the shape of the wave than is the norm.

I am definitely needing a bit more size and power and the thought of a nice long wall seems like a distant memory or hopeful dream, but I always say February is the best month down here, lets hope this Feb comes up with the goods.