I was never planning to surf the pier today, I was thinking with the winds coming from the north west in the afternoon, plenty of spots will be working so no need to surf the Pier. My mind was changed when I received the below picture with the accompanying text message which basically said... 'pier now nobody out!'
So what was I to do? Really I had no option... My most basic and fundamental rule in surfing is: if it looks good go out and surf it... I know from experience, especially on the south coast, that 'waiting' until things may improve is a fools game as swell can just vanish in a breath.
So plans were re-arrange, My wife is thankfully very (maybe that should be VERY VERY) understanding of my predicament and tends to be quite open to my last minute changes of plan to go surfing... About 40 minutes after the picture was taken I was in the water with about 5 other... 10 minutes later about 15 others.... 10 minutes after that about 30 others and things were getting scary. One of the main problems was the waves were relatively small and the take off zone was very tight with an almost A-frame peak breaking left and right from one very small area. I tended to sit inside and take the smaller weaker and crappier waves as it at least meant I got waves... Every time I would paddle back I could see 3,4,5,6 people all taking off on the same wave and about 10 others paddling and missing, so it was inevitable that boards would soon get smashed and I wasn't the only......
This happened to me about 40 minutes into the session, I ran back to the car, got another board and was quickly back out, but things had started to get even more crazy and very dangerous. What was briefly a mellow, sunny, chilled out and enjoyable surf, was quickly turning into hell. Boards were flying everywhere, people were arguing, shouting, dropping in was now the norm, if it wasn't so dangerous it could have been quite comical. It is unbelievable nobody was seriously hurt, and if everybody continues to surf like this, it wont be long before we have a serious injury or worse to contend with.
There were some nice waves ridden... not by me.. But I saw Mason get slotted just under the lip, Oli was looking pretty smooth on a longboard, as I stood on the beach looking back and assessing the mayhem I saw Guy get a lovely right hander. But apart from the few good rides there were so many close calls. I would really like to know what other people felt about this session. Is it me or are things getting just a little out of control?
I think in future I may be a bit more selective about my surfs at the Pier (is that like saying 'I'm not going to drink any more' when hungover?). Give me a chunky lone surf with double overhead 'Y' any day over this for my adrenalin rush.
I didn't feel upset or annoyed or frustrated walking away from this session, it was strange, a smashed board and only few crappy waves ridden when the potential was looking so good to begin would normally make me feel very disappointed and hungry for more waves elsewhere. Maybe today I was just happy to leave with my life!!
Check Guys feelings of the same surf... http://houseofbonzer.blogspot.com/2011/11/carnage-at-pier.html
Hence why you should not put surf reports up
ReplyDeleteHi Ben.
ReplyDeleteI enjoy reading your blog and I reckon you're pretty discreet and diplomatic with everything you say.
It does get crazy down at the pier. I tend not to go there on a w/e anymore when there's a bit of swell, dropping in seems to be normal and i'm not sure if it's some people that don't understand or if they don't care. Overall, I like when everyone can catch a few good waves and be friendly and have a chat in the water. There's no need for grumpiness and tension although I can understand it at times. I've seen many a punch up back home in Oz out in the waves and I reckon it certainly takes away the percieved 'cool' image of the sport. Shame to hear about your board.
Take it easy
Granto
Aye we only have 7 miles of easily accesible mediocre breaks keep your truthful reports to yourself and leave the reporting to the dreamers at the local "surf" shop....mucca mucca mucca! Oi oi oi!
ReplyDeleteHahaha... Enjoyed reading this one. I haven't surfed at the pier for over a month - when the waves were worse than your picure (fairly weak waist to chest windswell) and there were around 20 out on a weekday! After an hour in, a few close calls, a couple of close-outs and a near fin to the head I decided to call it a day. Not good. I've got back into playing footy again to forget about surfing for a while! As someone else mentioned it's the pressure of an ever growing population with only a couple of mediocre breaks within 10 miles or so. Shame because the pier can be a great wave on it's day.
ReplyDeletePS. Sorry to see your board got hammered - if you're looking for a good pro repair job give Jeff a bell - http://southcoastcustomsurfboards.wordpress.com/ did a great job on repairing my quad.
ReplyDeleteWe should get the council to put up some of the "surf etiquette" signs on the pier where everyone paddles out as a starting point. People trying to "police" the break will only cause fights. Everyone needs to police themselves starting with some education. Thoughts ?
ReplyDeleteYou Bournemothians are a peculiar bunch. I have never surfed here before, but given the forecast thought I'd drain the tank and see what I could find and had a thoroughly enjoyable few hours and tonnes of waves on Sunday afternoon. I got a heap of waves as did a load of others but was also amazed at the level of squalking, fussing, faffing, complaining and whingeing that was going on. IT WASN@T THAT BAD. The waves were small but fun and clean as a whistle, even with a pack of 20 or so there was plenty to go around. Everyone was shouting about how long they'd surfed here and crowded it was now compared to 20 years ago. Yes you might have been surfing for 20 year but whoopy do, so have plenty of others. There's no need to tell everyone how cool you are, just because you surf. It wasn't that bad and not nearly as bad as what has been pictured on this blog. I think you lot just like moaning.
ReplyDelete...and who the fuck is that cock on the blue quinnie? that cock whinged at full volume like a begger with no bowl for 2 hours, despite getting some half decent waves. lighten up lady and enjoy the moment rather than droning on for hours on ended how crowded it is, and how marvellous you are because you started surfing in 1987.
'See the Light Shining'
Byford - (Wheels of steel) 1980