Does it get any better?

5^th August. This is where it starts to get really fun

The rest of yesterday was spent body surfing with the kids at Sports, and then chilling in the afternoon getting myself ready for the earlier.

Surf 17 PERFECTO!!!

Simply put…. 5ft glassy no wind Mid high tide VVF banks firing some chunky glassy walls. When Andy and I got out at around 9.30am people were literally running down the dune to get in. Looking back across the beach at the end of the session 100s of bodies and boards could be seen, bobbing, dodging, and surfing in-between perfect waves from about 2 peaks to the left of VVF all the way down to the Bunkers at La Piest.

I was concerned about taking my Bonzer out before I got to the surf. It is so extremely different to my fish, that I thought the I might struggle to catch waves and put myself in good positions on the wave, but when waves are that good and powerful, paddling in becomes easy and the lack of buoyancy and the extra control and the ability to take extremely late very steep drops made surfing a pure joy.

Better in real life!

Probably an 8 on the Stoke factor rating, and if it wasn’t for the people could have been a 10! Luckilly the Locals don’t do dawnies!

The Day was spent in St Jean de Luz, kids crabbed and swam, and laughed and played, Imogen said it was her best day ever, although she has stated that a lot this holiday!

Too tired for eveing session, drank beer instead!

6^th August

Surf 18……Nearly a 10

Funny thing just happened, I wrote the date as 6^th of Feb! I quickly deleted it and wrote 6^th of August. On the 6^th of Feb last year Gary and I paddled out on one of the biggest swells we had both ever seen on the south coast, head and a half high waves and often bigger were pounding our favourite spot, after nearly driving away we decided to paddle out and attempt to surf it. Gary quickly got himself a stonking long right hander and it wasn’t long before he was paddling right past me again and towards the impact zone, his pecker up and confidence sky high he needed more of the same, a minute or so later the horizon did that thing where it vanishes and darkens. Head down I paddled hard left and towards the channel, looking back as I took about 4 strokes to climb the swelling mass of water under me I could see Gary attempt one of the most ballsy duck dives I’ve seen. He didn’t make it and it took him a wile before he surfaced, all looked well and I carried on paddling for the channel only to see Gary paddling in. I quickly followed, and wile walking past a succession of other surfers on the way out, getting back to the car I already new it was game over for today. Some how Gary had been cracked open his head blood everywhere and stitches were needed. I had managed 20 minutes and no rides in some of the best waves I have seen in years.

Swell was a bit smaller than yesterday so we decided to check our secret spot. It was PERFECT nobody out just Andy and I accompanied a strong off shore and 4ft of Magazine style top to bottom perfection they were the best waves I have seen all trip and managed to sneak under that watery curtain on several occasions. I was truly buzzing. As Andy turned to go for a no hoper I laughed as I saw board fly high in the air and then waited to see that he was ok. He came up holding his head and then paddled in. The waves were only breaking less than 10 metres from the shore so I started paddling to see if he was ok. He waved me back as if to say he was fine and would be coming back in soon. A minute or so later he held is hand up to me covered in blood. It was a long walk back and I couldn’t leave Andy with his head bleeding so once again exactly 18 months after the last time my surf buddy got a head injury my surf was cut short again. Andy apologised a lot and said I didn’t have to come but I think it would have taken a bit of gloss off the session if I hadn’t!

It’s funny its also the 18 surf of this trip…. Oooowwwww spooky… ok not really just a bizarre and slightly frustrating coincidence. I can’t believe he went for that wave, what the F**** was he thinking!

Still at least on this occasion I had a load of quality waves and at least an hour to surf them. This session was looking like a 10!