10th August
Surf 22
Ben arrived today with his dry wit and expected pisstake out of this blog! He was bouncing and desperate to check the surf wile Andy and I were unusually slow getting changed. Climbing to the top of the dune we were greeted with beautiful firing barrels at our secret spot, 3/4ft glassy and enough power to push a train over. ‘Frenchie’ was out showing us all how to surf the place, we all managed a few fantastic waves and Ben commented on the quality of this amazing find. Surfed my Bonzer I think it needs waves of this quality to really get it going.
11th August
Surf 23
The morning was slightly onshore and the swell had dropped although our secret spot (needs a name) was as powerful as ever but today was hard to surf, Frenchie made it look possible, but my wave count was low.
12th August
Surf 24
Ben turned up again this morning with 2 Spanish (sorry Basque!) friends. The surf at VVF was super clean although closing out so we all headed up to Les Bourdaines in separate vehicles and didn’t manage to meet again! The swell looked great but was very rippy and very hard work. Couldn’t get near the waves at times, I had a couple of good rides but massive amount of paddling for very little joy. I felt sluggish heavy and old in these waves and my bonzer would have happily been replaced with a long board. My frustration was compounded by a young thin bikini clad girl paddling right past me and proceeding to rip up the next perfect long left as if she was Kelly Slater’s daughter! I got out after that!
13th August,
Surf 25 Perfecto… Barrels Galore!!!!
Ben Joined the show again and I did feel slightly embarrassed turning up at the secret spot with me, Andy, Ben and 3 Spanish (sorry Basque!) mates. Frenchie and his mate were out and he didn’t look too pleased to see us. The waves were truly pumping perfect heavy heavy barrels, swell in the 4/5ft range, I don’t think it is possible to get a heavier wave on such a small swell. I ate sand a few times and got plenty of views from inside and out! I actually suffered one of my heaviest wipe outs of the trip so far, with the waves so perfect and a bunch of mates watching, backing out of a steep drop would have been greeted with justified ridicule. As I free-fell from an enormous drop I new before I hit the water/sand this could hurt, kicking the board away just before impact I soon felt myself being sucked back round into the lip and then being pummelled into the sand again, I tried frantically to cover my head with my arms but the wave ripped my arms in different directions and I was lucky not to hit my board. Gasping for breath and seriously disorientated I got to my feet in thigh deep water, I stared at the land for a second or two wile I came to my senses and realised which way I was facing! I turned to see my crew only about 5 metres away looking out to sea and completely unaware of my near death experience. As I paddled back my arms were shaking but it wasn't long before I was attempting another top to bottom beauty. At the end of the 3.5 hour session Ben called it an SF (Stoke Factor) 8. I was inclined to agree. Thinking back maybe an 8.5 could have been given.
14th August
surf 26
A bit slack and week light onshore in the 3ft range and Ben was wise not to travel up.
Surf 27
Quality offshore glass off at secret spot. Had some lovely 3/4ft waves and surfed until it was impossible to see. A dude who looked like a mini Jimmy Hendrix and surfed like Kelly Slater left me gulping in awe and respect at his talents, he gave me a friendly wave as we paddled over making me like him even more. The best surfer I have seen this year and the most friendly surfing a little known quality spot which he obviously had nailed. Big respect all round. Andy suffered another nasty wipe out and injured his leg badly. That’s 2 bad injuries in the same spot, it is definitely a wave of consequence when you screw up!
15th August
surf 28
On my own as Andy I surfed the secret spot alone for an hour before Frenchy Joined me I foolishly took my fish out and this wave is so not a fish wave! Had lots of fun but got out when the tide got too low and the place turned into Pipeline. Slight onshore but the waves were clean.
surf 29
Swell increased massively and I went out on a hoigh tide VVF in the 5/6ft range and probably some of the biggest waves I have seen all trip. Reminded me of some February sessions at Yellows. Slight onshore but clean. I took my 6’2 quad, probably should have been on my Lynch but I wasn’t expecting such size. Alone again as Andy was still out
16th August
Billy Birthday 5 today
Surf 30
Birthday surfs are always good and having my new favourite wave all to my self for over an hour with quality 3/4ft glassy waves was a joy, if not a little scary at times (Andy’s injuries played on my mind!). ‘Jimi’ joined me and was even more friendly than the other night, towards the end of my session Ben arrived with ‘Basque’ Jon, around this time a couple of boogie boarders turned up and soon another couple of surfers arrived! My secret spot all of a sudden wasn’t looking all that secret! And the waves started to seem a lot less consistent. It didn’t matter as I had my fill and I had to get off and buy cakes and treats for my boy.
Sole surfing on my sons Birthday
Andy Still Out!
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